Prototypes
I use a quick and simple way of making up a prototype circuit board, It's something I call my "Island" method. It involves cutting small circular "islands", or 'pads', on a copper clad board. I also occasionally use the "paddy board" (also known as 'blob board') method to construct prototypes. But I found that gluing small pads of copper board didn't always stay stuck - especially with the constant changes in heat, due to soldering, testing and trying different components; and, If I need larger "Islands", I can cut them with a small (Dremel-type) cutting disc or a small hacksaw. There are times when I use a combination of all of these, also utilising the "dead bug" method (gluing ICs upside-down onto a copper board).
The board you see is a plug-in output filter for a QRP 20m Tx. The idea to simply plug a different filter in, rather than use a complex switching arrangement when changing bands, came from (1) Drew Diamond VK3XU.
The way I do this is to modify a drill bit like those on the left. I prefer to use the 'spade' bit type, which is the 8mm one on the right. I got the idea from one of (2) Drew Diamond's articles (VK3XU) on cutting holes in aluminium.
I use a small battery operated angle grinder with a thin disk for metal cutting. Always wear gloves and goggles when doing this kind of work! (Phots were taken to illustrate the method without the angle grinder running.
You can also use a Dremel tool with a small cutting disk to do the same thing, but I prefer to use the battery operated angle grinder. Though I sometimes use the Dremel tool to refine and sharpen the point in the middle of the drill bit.
I start by reviewing the circuit diagram that I want to transfer into reality; and, then I sketch a physical layout of the components to get an idea of where all the joining (my "islands") of components takes place. I find this a very useful exercise, because I often find a more efficient layout after I have completed the original layout drawing of the physical components. It also confirms that I've transferred everything from the circuit diagram correctly.
From my original (reviewed) drawing of the physical layout of the components in their final position, I highlight the positions of the "islands". This ends up becoming the pattern of "Islands" that I want to 'cut' on the blank copper clad board. I now copy the layout of "Islands" from my drawing onto the copper clad board by placing a dot, using a black marker pen, for each "Island".
I now use a small drill or Dremel tool to place a hole at each of my black marker pen dots. This hole acts as a guide for the modified drill bit that is used to cut the "Islands". (If I am using double-sided board, I will drill a few extra holes through the board to solder a thin wire through, making sure that both sides are connected as the circuit ground, or 'earth'.)
I cut my "Islands" using the specially prepared drill bit. I then smooth any rough points/raised copper by gently using a file over both sides of the surface of the board. I usually scrub the copper with steel wool/cleaning pad to make sure that I have a nice clean surface to solder components to...
Now I lay the board down on a piece of paper to use it as a template. Through each hole I place a small mark using a pencil/graphic pen (something thin enough to go through the hole in the centre of each "island") to indicate where my "Islands" are located.
I now remove the board and draw a circle (using an appropriate sized washer!) around each 'dot' which I made. You can see the board "Islands" match the green highlighted pads on the drawing above. I use this as a final check for the physical layout of components as I draw in the 'real size' components on the paper.
Final inspection to make sure that the Islands have been cut cleanly and there are no 'bridges' to the surrounding copper. If you are using single sided copper board, you can also hold the board up to the light to see the cuts are clean.
You may want to have a final check between your circuit and physical layout - just to be absolutely sure you have everything correct and nothing has been missed out! It's now time to solder everything in place, referring to your drawing.
Here is an example of the finished prototype. In this case it is the 80m Direct Conversion receiver. For more information on this receiver, please select 'Receivers' from the dropdown menu under the Amateur Radio heading above.
73 Nic VK7WW
Acknowledgements:
(1) VK3XU Plug in Filter Concept
(2) VK3XU Cutting Holes in Aluminium
(3) KE3IJ (SK) DC-80 Receiver Circuit
(4) WA7JHZ Broadcast Band Filter Circuit for SDRs